Gaga for Gichigami: Sadie the Wonderdoodle takes on the North Shore
Thursday, April 1st, 2010By Meredeth Barzen
Sadie the Wonderdoodle stretches her legs on Duluth's Lakewalk.
One of the questions we get asked the most at Sidewalk Dog is “Where can I go when I want to get out of town with my dog?” That’s what prompted our recent Northwoods Getaways post, which offers six lovely local (as in Minnesota’s great Northwoods) spots to spend vacation time with your pooch. One of those resorts, Bluefin Bay, offered us the chance to take a closer look at Lake Superior living, with two nights on the house.** And since there’s nothing Sadie the Wonderdoodle (or her mom) likes better than fresh air, trees, and water, we didn’t exactly hesitate to say yes. Bluefin Bay is extremely dog-friendly, and we found a lot of ways to incorporate fun for Sadie into other aspects of our trip to make this weekend an official Dog-Friendly Northwoods Fun Bonanza. Here’s how it went down:
Checking for ships at Split Rock Lighthouse
After a bit of a struggle to get the Wonderdoodle into the car (as animal communicator Ilga Cimbulis once said, carsickness is Sadie’s burden to bear in life), we set out from South Minneapolis for the nearly five-hour drive to Tofte, Minn., treat bags loaded for both dogs and humans. Travel tip: Those fold-up water bowls are great for long car rides—gotta stay hydrated. Those first three hours from the Twin Cities to Duluth are a little on the dull side, so be sure to break it up with a stop in Hinkley at Tobie’s for a killer caramel roll. (Killer is not a euphemism. If you have heart problems, this might do you in—but what a way to go.) We also picked up some considerably healthier 7-grain oatmeal to cook up for breakfast one morning—Bluefin sent a blueprint of our room ahead of time, so we knew we had a full kitchen to work with.
Everyone in the car needed to stretch their legs by the time Great Gichigami was in sight (that’s Lake Superior in common parlance), so we ditched the car at Canal Park in Duluth and took a stroll along the shore. Lunch was a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel from Northern Waters Smokehaus (oh, what Sadie would have given for some of that smoked salmon, but alas, it was too good to share), after which we continued onward and upward—or, um, Northeast-ward.
Right at home in front of the fireplace at Bluefin Bay
From there, it was an hour drive along the beautiful North Shore Scenic Drive to Gooseberry Falls State Park. Sadie felt a lot better once she was able to get some of that good old rust-red Iron Range mud between her toes, but that good feeling dropped off once we got back on the road and her car-queasiness got the best of her. No matter—Scenic 61 has plenty of turnoffs overlooking the big lake where we could stop, clean up, get some fresh air and admire the view.
Just a hop-skip to Split Rock Lighthouse from there—another breathtaking view—and shortly after, we arrived at Bluefin Bay.
Marie at the front desk welcomed us with hiking and cross-country skiing recommendations, a special treat for Sadie and plenty of info on Bluefin’s extremely considerate pet policies. Special plastic mitts for poop disposal are strategically placed all over the property. Also, while many dog-friendly resorts don’t let you leave your dog alone in the room, Bluefin allows it, provided the dog is kenneled (the resort has kennels on-hand if you forget yours or don’t have one.) And, when you duck out for breakfast at the Coho Café or a short trip to Grand Marais, you can leave your cell phone number with the front desk, so if little Fifi or Fido gets nervous in your absence and starts barking or crying, they can give you a ring.
Sunset on the beach at Bluefin Bay
We were directed to a lovely room right on the lake—floor-to-ceiling windows, wood-burning fireplace, a deck, a full kitchen (as promised), a Jacuzzi tub and a hook in the front hallway for hanging up coats and leashes (hey, it’s the little details that count.) Yep, this’ll do just fine. We made a fire, Sadie took her Norman-Rockwell-esque place in front of it, and we relaxed after a long drive. A note for guests whose dogs have a territorial streak: While picturesque, those giant windows offer a clear view of other guests walking along the shore, right past your room. If your dog doesn’t like seeing others near its home—even a temporary one—Bluefin has some upper-level pet-friendly rooms that keep the lake views but shield Rufus from what he perceives as trespassers.
The next morning, with sunlight streaming in those big windows, we set out for a hike. Marie had suggested the Gitchi-Gami State Trail, which stretches all along the North Shore of Lake Superior, and functions as a safe alternative to Highway 61 for bikes. While the Gitchi-Gami wasn’t quite as cool as its name promised—it was totally paved, which is great for cyclists, but not so exciting for tree-huggers like ourselves—it ran past an entrance to the Superior Hiking Trail, a system that weaves 235 miles from Two Harbors to the Canadian border. No one in our small party—Wonderdoodle included—expected the incredible hike ahead through the Temperance River State Park. We paralleled the still-frozen river as it churned its way to the shore, rushing under broken ice in spots and dropping off waterfalls that got more dramatic as it approached Superior. Toward the end of the hike, we teetered along a great gorge and nervously peered down at glacial potholes that the river had gouged out millions of years ago. As an amateur geology geek, I was in heaven. Sadie—leashed the whole time, as much for our peace of mind as for the sake of following the rules—was a happy camper as well.
Overlooking the Temperance River
While walking the grounds of Bluefin Bay, we met a couple of other pooches taking advantage of the ample room to romp. Yoshi, the Shih Tzu/poodle mix enjoyed a long morning walk with his precocious young owner. Dude, the golden retriever, has been bringing his parents to Bluefin Bay for eight years—that must explain why he walked the smooth pebble beach like he owned the place.
But all good things come to an end, and so Sadie resignedly hopped back into the car and we made our way toward the cities on Sunday morning. A lunch stop at the Amazing Grace Bakery and Café in Duluth was invaluable, as it introduced us to The Best Sandwich in the World—thick, hand-sliced, house-baked bread, bright, lively vegetables, and solid construction—and a nice, long stroll along the city’s Lakewalk prepped us all for the remainder of the drive, which we’re happy to report was free of carsickness this time.
So, if you and your pup are into fresh air, sweeping vistas and, yes, truly awesome geology (or even if that last one isn’t really your thing), we’re happy to recommend a dog-friendly trip up to our fair state’s North Shore. For an in-state take on summer vacation, it can’t be beat.
**Editor’s Note: Though the accommodations were gratis, based on the good time we were shown and the number of happy dogs (and owners) we met in our short time there, we’d have nothing but nice things to say about Bluefin Bay regardless.
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